Two weeks ago was my last week of working as an English Teacher. Now free from hectic schedules and lesson planning, the future holds many different traveling adventures, the first of which was a weekend trip to the east side of the island for an aboriginal cooking class and soaking up the beautiful mountains and beaches.
Chaprece, a friend I met while working at the Lugang school, was my travel buddy on this trip. We rented a car, which allowed for a lot of freedom in our trip planning and the ability to reach new places. It was also very reminiscent of being in the states. We set off early Saturday morning on the Central Cross-Island Highway, which runs through the middle of Taiwan, an often one lane highway that traces the ridge of a mountain.
As we climbed further up in elevation, the views were jaw-dropping. Verdant green hills rolled away in the distance, as far as the eye could see. It looked as though a group of stegosauruses had fallen asleep together years ago and tucked themselves in with a blanket of ferns. At the top, we stopped briefly at the HeHuanShan park, although we didn't hike any of the trails leading up to the top of the peak. There was a stiff breeze, the air cool and crisp for the first time in months.
Coming out on the east side, the freeway exits through Taroko Gorge, which was still as stunning the second time around. The trip did, however, take a long time: almost six hours to reach Hualien, including several short breaks. It was nearly time for our cooking class, so we scrounged to find a quick lunch. This is more difficult than one would imagine, because in Taiwan, many places close between 2:00 and 4:00pm. We tried three different places that were either closed, sold out or not serving food anymore, before giving up and having pizza. In the end, it was alright, because we would eat good that night with our class at Karenko Kitchen.
Our teachers were Sofia from the Bunun tribe and Monica from the Ami tribe. They took us into their creative space and after a refreshing drink, got started right away with our meal. We would prepare a salad, soup, rice, a vegetable dish and a main course of the Taiwanese classic Three Cup Chicken.
The recipes we used will be included in greater detail in a later blog, but here is a rough overview. First we made a mix of purple, sticky and regular rice in a large leaf, which was the style of the Bunun tribe. Then a moss salad with chopped veggies and a lemon and soy sauce dressing. A soup was made using chopped breadfruit stewed with dried fish. Then we sautéed a blend of local greens foraged by Sofia that morning. Finally we made delicious Three Cup Chicken, which derives its name from the three liquids used: sesame oil, Chinese rice wine and oyster soy sauce.
The kitchen had no AC, so by the end of our time cooking, we had worked up a massive sweat, and a massive appetite. We all sat down at the table to eat our creations and chat. We were able to ask questions about their life and experiences in Hualien, and growing up as part of an indigenous tribe. They were open and friendly, and gave us tips for experiencing the area, including hikes, activities and, by happenstance, an eclipse that was set to happen the next day!
We left, stuffed to the brim and touting leftovers. While we wanted to walk along the boulevard and check out the beach, we needed to go check into our Air BnB. After a bit of trouble locating the place due to a slightly off address, we finally located our bungalow. We were greeted by the property owner and his pack of dogs. He only spoke Chinese, but he and I chatted for a bit. He also mentioned the eclipse and where to watch it, as well as recommending other activities in Hualien. Later that evening he stopped by with some fresh fruit from his garden, which he walked me through as told me about his kids (all grown up now). It was a very pleasant stay.
Due to the news about the eclipse, we decided to modify our Sunday plans. Originally, we were going to check out the QingShui Cliffs and then maybe go on a hike, before driving down Highway 11 and trying to find a beach for a good swim. However, the eclipse presented a new opportunity. The full eclipse would be happening just two hours south of us (although, partiality could be viewed much closer). We decided to take our time driving down Highway 11, marvel at the view, before finding somewhere around the Tropic of Cancer to view the eclipse.
Highway 11 runs along the east coast of Taiwan, and is arguably one of the most beautiful stretches of land on the island. Towering green mountains plunge almost directly into the turquoise blue ocean. Little beaches and inlets dot the coast, providing respite from the heat amid the tepid waters. We stopped at many places on the way south, including a viewpoint over a small cove, a shelf of exposed rocks with tidepools of tiny fish and crabs, and a small beach dotted with old fishing boats.
When lunch rolled around, we found a place, only to arrive and be told that they had sold out. So we searched through google maps, landing on a cute cafe further down the coast. This ended up being the best thing that happened all trip! The cafe was high up on the mountain, and as we wound up the twisting road, we wondered what we were in for. When the view emerged, our jaws nearly dropped.
We walked in, ordered our drinks and snacks, then found seats on a shaded deck overlooking a huge swathe of the Pacific. Far below us a tranquil beach emerged from the vegetation, white waves crashing on the shore. The deep blue of the ocean stretched as far as the eye could see, until it ran headfirst into the sky. The property was large, providing a view of the towering green-robed mountains rising majestically behind us, crowned with white clouds. After a short walk, a bench on the edge of the ridge provided a view down the entire coast. As we sat drinking our tea, the wind traipsed through the deck, bringing with it the hum of cicadas. We relaxed, totally at peace and ready for a nap. Then the eclipse began.
The entire eclipse lasted almost two hours, but the most spectacular moment lasted less than a minute. An annular eclipse, unlike a total solar eclipse which creates complete darkness, instead creates what is known as "The Ring of Fire"as the sun appears in a circle of light around the moon. An annular eclipse happens on three conditions: 1. It is a new moon, 2. The sun, moon and earth are aligned in a straight line, and 3. The moon is at it's apogee, or furthest point from the sun. Taiwan's solar eclipse also happened on the solstice (which will only happen twice this century), and another eclipse won't occur again in Taiwan for another 195 years.
Once it began, people began to flock to a sky bridge to view it. Eclipses must only be viewed using special protective glasses, which were kindly shared with us by other cafe patrons. For nearly an hour we watched the moon slowly devour the sun. As it got closer, the light dimmed, the heat dissipated, and we all gathered together to watch. The whole valley switched into greyscale. On a cellphone the live stream of Yunlin County, a few moments ahead of us on the other side of the island, showed the incredible Ring of Fire. It was our turn. And then...a cloud floated in front of the sun. The few brief seconds of the annulus were missed.
But despite the disappointment, there is something to be said for watching a cosmic phenomenon in any respect. At times, I wondered why I was so enraptured with a small disk of light in the sky. It looked just like the crescent moon. But when you stop and really think about what is happening, the enormity of it all starts to put things on earth into perspective. It is also striking to witness the sun being blotted out mid-afternoon.
After the eclipse, we headed back up the coast. In the entirety of the trip, I never became accustomed to the beauty of the mountains and the ocean. Chaprece started taking imaginary shots every time I mentioned their beauty. Had we not been driving it would have been a fabulous drinking game. But seriously, the mountains were SO beautiful!
That night we had my first taste of Mexican food since being on the island, curtesy of a local restaurant, Dos Tacos. The burrito was nice, and it was decently legit, but still nothing compared to true authentic Mexican food (I can't wait until I'm home and can have tacos). Still, I finished it all before I even remembered to take a picture.
Chaprece worked on Monday, so we got up very early and made the trip back, this time going up north to Taipei and around. While the trip had a lot of driving, it was nice to be back in the passenger seat and have freedom over where we were going. Also, I always love a good roadtrip. This weekend was a wonderful way to shake off the negative influences of my previous job and shift into the mode of traveling and appreciating all that Taiwan has to offer.
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