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Writer's pictureCharli Elliott

Lovely Lugang - 鹿港

Updated: Sep 7, 2020

I am going to hazard a guess that not many people love the place they work. Between the commute, the long hours, and the inherent trapped feeling that comes with working, the job site isn't the most inviting place. Anyone else? No, just me? Well then let me begin by saying that I had it out for Lugang before I really knew anything about it. I commute by bus for forty-five minutes every weekday, walk the same eight minute walk to the school, stopping only for a 蛋饼 or to swing by Family Mart. There's not much in the small stretch, and I had begun to cultivate the idea that Lugang doesn't have much to offer.



On Friday however, my eyes were opened. While it is a small township, it‘s known for a stretch of historical temples and traditional architecture. During an exceptionally long break between classes, a coworker and I ventured into the traditional Old Street area. The town that I thought had nothing to offer suddenly blossomed into a quaint little street bursting with food carts and stores boasting tea, jewelry and other knickknacks. We wandered along, popping into the occasional store, then found a few temples.


The most well known we saw was the 天后宫 or Mazu Temple, named for the sea goddess it is dedicated to. It is one of the oldest temples in Taiwan, constructed around 1600. It is a very beautiful temple, and its halls are filled with idols of the goddess, gorgeous carvings and stunning architecture. Sitting in the back hall, next to a burbling dragon fountain, wreathed in the smell of incense, one is enveloped in a sense of peace.



While I had to return to work on Friday, on Saturday I join some LA's from work and they yet again showed me around Lugang. Mostly the food scene. Minnie and Freya took me to several famous places, and stopped at nearly every food cart to snag sweets or small snacks. With them, I was able to see a side of Lugang I would have never seen on my own.


Saturday saw the area packed with people and out-of-towners flocking to the temples to pay their respects before the Mid Autumn Festival next weekend. Offerings filled tables in the temples and the narrow corridors of Old Street were a maze of people. Vendors hawked their wares from the sides of the street and a river of people, cars and scooters wound through the city. I felt as though I had my finger on the pulse of Lugang. For the first time, I truly enjoyed being in the city.



I am incredibly grateful to Minnie and Freya for showing me around, treating me to so many different foods, and putting up with my very rusty Chinese. I intend to continue exploring the city, both solo and with friends. There is so much I still have to see; I haven't even made it to the most famous temple yet!


While maybe not the best stop for people visiting Taiwan for a short time, if you live in Zhanghua, Taizhong or nearby, I would definitely recommend making a day trip to see the area. You'll get a taste of the traditional side of Taiwan.

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